Ten Days of Barrels, Banter and Beers in Fiji

Words by Jono Burkin & Rhys Bridges
Photography by Jono Burkin

Surfers from New Zealand are used to what most would call miserable surfing conditions: large periods of on-shore winds flattening the waves, swells coming in from the South Pacific that are too large for the many beaches and reefs to hold, and brain-freezing water no matter what part of the country you’re in.

So when the opportunity came up to spend ten days on a boat sailing around the Fijian islands just as prime wave season started, five surf-deprived and corporate-tied mates jumped at the chance.

Fiji is a surfer’s hedonistic dream. Water temperatures akin to a spa pool, crystal-clear water, an abundance of sea life to keep you company in the water and, most importantly, some of the most consistent swell and wind combinations in the world.

The following is a brief summary of the trip of a lifetime. It’s hard to reflect back on those ten days without feeling a sense of nostalgia. It’s not often you get the chance to share some of the best waves in the world with just you and your best mates in the water.

Day 1: Setting Sail

After landing in Nadi, we wasted no time prepping for the adventure. We split up, half of us scouring the dusty local markets for supplies (rooster meat was on special), while the others headed to the marina to prep the boat, a magnificent 40-foot hunk of aluminium called Tintin.

By afternoon, we were on our way to Musket Cove off Malolo Island, cold lagers in hand. As the sun faded into a dreamy orange glow, we anchored, cracked a few more beers and toasted to the days ahead.

Day 2-4: The Surfing Dream Begins

Our mornings became ritualistic: strong coffee, porridge and setting sail at sunrise. Tavarua Island’s famed wave, ‘Restaurants’, delivered flawless peeling surf in balmy, glasslike water.

In between sessions, while more coffee brewed on the gas stove, we met surfers from across the globe who were all drawn by the same love for the ocean. We had a laugh when a surfer from California mentioned he was paying over $1,500 USD per night to stay on Tavarua Island itself, while we were anchored 30 metres from the wave for free.

Then came ‘Cloudbreak’ – the legendary wave we’d dreamed of riding. Its power was humbling (in other words, pretty bloody terrifying). The force of the wave actually blew the fibreglass off the back of Jono’s board mid-wave. Every session was spent tripping out on the adrenaline, trying to find the balance between sneaking into the wave of your life or getting drilled in the worst wipeout you’ll ever experience.

Day 5-6: A Stormy Twist

After days of surfing, our corporate-athlete bodies were in pieces and our supplies almost at nil. Back at Musket Cove, we restocked (no rooster meat available this time) before diving straight back into cold beers at a Malolo Island resort while playing an old Peruvian dice game called Perudo. A perfect escape, until the weather turned.

The next day, after an epic surf at Wilkes Pass, a tropical storm rolled in. Battling a lethal trio of wind, rain and a hangover, we somehow managed to secure the boat without much visibility.

Day 7-8: One Last Blowout

As payment for our time on the boat, our well-earned rest day was spent cleaning Tintin’s hull and soaking up Fiji’s returned rays. But by the next day, we were back to mischief – sailing to Fiji’s mainland for one final night of rum-fueled chaos at the infamous Pirate Bar at Vuda Marina. Cards, triple rum and cokes, and a passed-out crewmate on deck (we won’t name names) – our last wild hurrah.

Day 10: Farewell to the Ocean

With heavy hearts and an even heavier hangover, we packed our kit, gave Tintin one last spruce, hauled our gear to the airport and soaked up our final Fijian sunset at a poolside bar. A toast to the adventure, the waves and the freedom of the open sea: an unrivaled combination for the corporate Kiwi surfer.